The overlooked region of Portugal that’s attracting the A-list

Despite its growing celebrity, the Alentejo offers a slice of authentic Portugal – here’s how to explore like a local

Travellers here still have difficulty knowing how to pronounce the name of the Portuguese region, Alentejo; a word that comes from além – beyond – and tejo – the River Tagus. But many, many more now know where it is, thanks to its regular appearance on newspaper gossip pages – most recently alongside headlines announcing that Prince Harry and Meghan Markle are reportedly looking to buy a house in the Tróia Peninsula, aka “the Hamptons of Portugal”, on the region’s coastline.
For those who do not, the Alentejo lies, of course, beyond the River Tagus, which flows into Lisbon. Stretching down to the Algarve in the south, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to its west and Spain to its east.
It takes up almost a third of the country with its vast rolling plains, often dotted with megaliths and dolmens, its oak groves where black pigs happily graze on fallen acorns and its swaying wheat fields. There are impressive towns like Vila Viçosa, built with local, pink-hued, white marble and the Unesco World Heritage Site of Evora, which boasts a beautifully preserved Roman temple. And there are simpler medieval, white-washed hilltop villages, which punctuate the landscape, like Monsarez, where clusters of cloth-capped octogenarians gather in village squares, over a bica (espresso) or an artisanal brandy, depending on the hour.
It is in the Alentejo that you find authentic Portugal. Its heritage is still intact, its artisans still busy. You can see them working in the sharp green, emerald rice fields in Comporta, weaving rugs in Monsarez, throwing pots in Redondo or tending vines in Vidigueira. And you can taste the unfiltered Alentejan terroir in the sheep cheeses, the full-bodied red wines, even in the famous greengages from Elvas, which you should eat at source before they are candied, dusted with sugar, and sold in elegant wooden boxes on the shelves of Fortnum and Mason. 
Take your time – as the locals do, the butt of many a joke from the rest of Portugal on their slow pace of life – and explore gently. Here’s how to explore this underrated region on your next visit.
Every region in Portugal has its own culinary characteristics. The Alentejo’s cuisine is a simple, rural one which draws on bounty from the field and forest – wild asparagus, sheeps’ cheese, sausages and hams, partridge and wild boar, olives, pork and lamb, herbs such as pennyroyal, mint and coriander. And from the sea come clams, here often served with pork, prawns, octopus and in Comporta, eels. But above all the most essential ingredient here is bread, typically found in soups, but always on the table.
In general, the intense, full-bodied Alentejan red wines are more sought after than the whites, but lovers of white should try Herdade de Grous or the Esporão Reserva for a real treat. Serious oenophiles should look at following the region’s wine route (vinhosdoalentejo.pt) but if that is too much, make time to visit FitaPreta winery (antoniomacanita.com), housed in a beautiful 14th century building. Interesting here is their Amphora wine. Or head to the very sleek Herdade do Freixo winery (herdadedofreixo.com), which has been built underground and has remarkably aromatic whites. 
Not to be missed is Évora, for its Roman temple, 16th century aqueduct, and the rather gruesome Chapel of Bones. Also, Vila Viçosa, with its impressive Ducal Palace, is an essay in local marble and still retains vestiges of its time as the country seat of the Dukes of Bragança. Marvão is the most perfect medieval hamlet, standing on an escarpment looking across to Spain. Surrounded by 13th century walls which enclose a 15th century church, a pousada and tiny white-washed houses, it is the kind of place where you could be tempted to just fall off the grid.
The Alentejo charms as much with its villages as its towns. White-washed houses wth blue trim, said to ward off the devil, are topped by wide chimneys, used for smoking the typical local hams. The church bell tower will inevitably have a stork’s nest on it, as will many of the telegraph poles along the road. In Comporta, despite the influx of A-listers, storks must still outnumber people; dip into the pretty town to see. 
Dolmens, menhirs and cromlechs are prolific in this region and quite easily spotted. If you want to explore a bit further, the Museum of Archaeology, housed in a former convent in Montemor-o-Novo, has a wide range of exhibitions.
Although Comporta is actually a town, its name refers to a region and it is here where the best beaches can be found. Empty even in the summer if you know where to go, the endless stretches of blindingly white sand, washed by turquoise waters make the heart sing. 
Praia do Carvalhal and Praia do Pego are the best known, with restaurants offering the perfect lunch of fresh fish, simply grilled with just a little olive oil and sea salt. They are also equipped with sun loungers and lifeguards. For more off-the-beaten-track beaches, head to Praia da Aberta Nova, or Praia de Galé Fontainhas.  
Although other regions in Portugal, notably the Minho, impress with their handicrafts, the Alentejo is a real treasure trove. Here wooden furniture, from bedheads to tables and chairs, come painted with flowers. Clay figures for nativity scenes fill the windows in the shops in Estremoz and Évora, pottery abounds in Redondo. 
The ancient town of Arraiolos is famous for its carpet weaving, which can be traced back to the 13th century, many works decorate the country’s manor houses and palaces. Monsarez produces more rustic, vibrant rugs – often echoing the colours of the wildflowers in the surrounding countryside.
Set in bucolic countryside within sight of hill-top Monsarez, São Lourenço do Barrocal (00 351 266 247 140) has double rooms from £350, including breakfast.  
If it’s sand and sea that call, Quinta da Comporta (00 351 265 112 390) has double rooms from £200, and a restaurant overlooking the rice fields.
Évora is the capital of Alentejo and is famous for its food. Fialho is an institution with dishes of wild asparagus with scrambled eggs and black pork cheeks in red wine. Another, more contemporary, favourite is Mercearia Gadanha in beautiful Estremoz.
The Roman Temple in Évora, probably erected in the 2nd or 3rd century is a must-see.
Fly to Lisbon with British Airways from £225 return, and hire a car from Lisbon Airport.
Scott Dunn (0208 682 5400) offers seven nights at São Lourenço do Barrocal from £3,200pp, including flights and car hire. 

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